Art and about: Going to the Chapel (part one)


Photo: Hazel & Thomas marry on the Isle of Man, 2017

Religion, romance, art and architectural history, the chapel (from the Latin capella), is a small place of worship with an altar, usually inside a larger church.  I’ve unashamedly named this blog after The Dixie Cups’ 1964 pop song “Going to the Chapel” to write about going to church.

Growing up Catholic meant prayers, confession, communion, learning Latin and always the weekly gathering at Sunday Mass (we were threatened with damnation if we didn’t attend). Life and times evolved, bringing education in theology and art history. Travelling had new significances and understanding.  Family life meant the happiest and saddest of occasions in church: weddings, baptisms and funerals.

In country areas, the Chapel gathers communities. Fictionally, it inspires literature, movies and television series where we see small-town gossip, trickery, murders (lots) and menacing in surrounding graveyards late at night.

Churches and their history fascinate me. They plot much of my life’s learnings and travels. Going to the Chapel Part One blogs about memorable times in Britain.

Crosthwaite Church, Keswick, Lakes District, UK
Keswick on Derwentwater is “where my heart sings”.  I’ve visited many times since living in UK during the 70s, gratified by the breadth of water, might of Skiddaw, picturesque village and surrounds. While I roam the landscape, there’s looming fells for the serious hikers.

My morning walks often lead me through the village to Crosthwaite (St Kentigern) Church. It’s a solid looking building, with square tower and one hour hand only. Robert Southey (Poet Laureate) is buried in the graveyard.

St Kentigern (known at St Mungo in Scotland) was driven out of Glasgow by a pagan prince and set up his cross in a clearing or “thwaite’ in 553AD, hence Crosthwaite. Nothing remains of the earliest church. There have been several re-constructions, with the present church being built in 1523 and further restored in 1844.

On one trip in 2005, Melbourne friend, Sheri, and I attended a Sunday morning service. It felt like a scene from The Vicar of Dibley. With a total congregation of nine, we were by far the youngest. An experience to remember, we wrote in the visitors book. Twelve years later, re-visiting Keswick, I searched for our signatures – and found them, 9th October!

In the ringing chamber, under the tower, is this delightful verse (in part):

He who in ringing interrupts a Peal,
For such an offence shall pay a Quart of Ale.
In falling Bells one penny must be paid,
By him who stops before the signals made.
And he who takes Gods holy Name in vain,
Shall pay one Shilling and this Place refrain.
You ringers all take care, you must not fail,
To have your forfeitures spent in Ale.
With Heart upright let each true Subject ring,
For Health and Peace, to Country, Church, & King.
         
Photos: Welcome to Keswick; Derwentwater; lofty Skiddaw; pathway to Crosthwaite Church with one-hour hand in the bell tower; the altar; Sheri and I signed the visitors book.

Rosslyn Chapel, Scotland
Perhaps better known from Dan Brown’s The Da Vinci Code – several movie scenes were filmed here – Rosslyn Chapel is a bit spooky.   Photography isn’t allowed inside, but visitors are sent on a mystery history tour, hunting for gargoyles, symbolisms of death and devils, lovers and knights.

Founded in 1446 by Sir William St Clair, Rosslyn Chapel is in Midlothian, less than half an hour’s drive from Edinburgh.   A medieval landmark, it is predominantly Gothic architecture, with rising flying buttresses, intricate stonemason works on the exterior.

Inside too, is an abundance of stonework throughout the crypt, baptistery, Lady Chapel, aisles and around the alter. The pillars and almost every stone tell a story. It is amassed with master craftmanship.  How many green men can you find? visitors are asked.  There’s around 100 of these eerie-but-cheeky faces, with leafy surrounds. Their meaning is varied from great goodness to significant evil, the foliage representing nature, growth and fertility.  Perhaps that’s why the face has ‘mixed messages’?
(Photos from the Chapel interior and the green man are from the internet.)

While Rosslyn always held mystical and historical intrigue, the release of The Da Vinci Code brought international curiosity.  Dan Brown wrote, “When I decided to write The Da Vinci Code, I knew that its finale would have to take place at the most mysterious and magical chapel on earth, Rosslyn.”  The book and film suggested links to the location of the Holy Grail, an enthralling but imaginary fascination.
     
Photos: the exterior of Rosslyn Chapel; on a mystery tour; the ‘crazy’ interior; a green man.

St Mark’s, Isle of Man
What a wedding it was!  My Godson, Thomas, married Hazel on the Isle of Man in September, 2017.

The Island is known worldwide for the annual TT (Tourist Trophy) motorcycle races around its hairy 37.73 mile course. It’s fast and dangerous. My fellow passengers on the ferry from Liverpool to Heysham carried bike helmets and riding gear, anticipating a high-speed weekend.

Geographically, the Isle is in the Irish sea between Great Britain and Ireland. While it isn’t part of the UK, the Isle of Man has been a British Crown Dependency since 1828.  It has a coastline of 160kms (99 miles), with a population of near 85,000.

Thomas, a pilot, met Hazel when they were both working on the Isle of Man.  They married at St Mark’s (1772), a small white church building with stone constructed bell tower. Situated in a hamlet with an old schoolhouse and church cottages either side, St Mark’s characterises “quaint”.

My closeness to the family dates back to the 1970’s, those same times when I visited the Lake District with flatmates, John and Jen.  Back then, Margaret (see photo) and I were John and Jen’s bridesmaids.  They had two children, Kate and Thomas. Four and half decades later, we were all together again for Thomas and Hazel’s wedding celebrations.  The reception was celebrated in a marqee alongside a cliff face, with sweeping landscape views.
      
Photos: Morning walk, Douglas; the tram car from Douglas to the top of the Isle; St Mark’s Church from the graveyard; Interior with Kate and Margaret (my fellow bridesmaid from the ’70s); wedding service; at the wedding reception.

We partied well into the night. It was a jolly bus ride back to seaside Douglas, with lasting memories of a wonderful wedding on the Isle of Man.                                                 Photo: Wedding bells ring, St Mark’s Church

© 2025 Text and photos:  Pamela Reid